Imagine you’ve just carved out a little creative time for yourself and you’re ready to dive into your newest sewing project. There’s just one tiny hiccup: those mysterious symbols on your sewing pattern! What do all those symbols and markings mean?!? They might as well be hieroglyphics that need a university degree to decode their hidden mysteries.
Not every sewing pattern you’ll encounter will be covered with dots, dashes and arrows. But many do, especially if you are sewing clothing or quilts. And to ensure your fabric pieces are cut and sewn together correctly, you need to understand what these intriguing symbols mean.
But, fear not! In this blog post, you’ll discover how to decode the 5 most important sewing pattern symbols. By the end, you’ll be fluent in the language of sewing patterns, turning those baffling symbols into your new BFFs.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning that I get a small commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you.
Psst! Once you’ve finished reading this article, be sure to check out the other handy sewing hints at the bottom of this post 👇👇👇
Guide to 5 Sewing Pattern Markings You Need to Understand
01. Grainline
Symbol: A long arrow
The grainline is one of the most crucial symbols on a sewing pattern. Think of the grainline arrow as your sewing compass.
The fabric grain refers to the threads that run parallel to the selvage (the finished edge of the fabric). That long arrow indicates the direction in which the paper pattern piece should be aligned with the fabric grain.
Aligning your pattern pieces correctly ensures that your garment hangs properly and has the correct amount of stretch and stability.
How to Use:
- Lay your fabric flat with the selvage edges parallel.
- Place the pattern piece on the fabric and measure to ensure the grainline arrow is parallel to the selvage edge.
- Pin or weight the pattern piece in place before cutting.
Tip: Need more help with fabric terminology? Read this dictionary of fabric terms.
02. Fold Line
Symbol: A double arrow pointing to a straight line
The fold line indicates that the edge of the pattern piece should be placed on the fold of the fabric.
When you see this line, fold your fabric in half, match the symbol to the fold, and cut once.
This results in a piece that is double the width of the folded edge when unfolded and is commonly used for pieces that need to be mirrored, like the front or back of a garment (think the front of a t-shirt). Voilà! Symmetrical pieces every time.
How to Use:
- Fold your fabric along the grainline.
- Place the pattern piece edge with the bent arrow on the fold of the fabric.
- Pin in place and cut around the other edges, leaving the fold uncut.
03. Cutting Line
Symbol: Lines around the edge of pattern pieces
Cutting lines indicate where you should cut the fabric pieces you’ll need.
These lines often come in different styles to denote different sizes within the same paper pattern. Each size will typically have its own unique cutting line, which can be differentiated by colour, dashed, or dotted lines. Or all of the above! 😅
How to Use:
- Identify your size on the pattern.
- Follow the cutting line that corresponds to your size, carefully cutting around the pattern piece.
- Lay that pattern piece on your fabric and cut out the corresponding piece of fabric.
Tip: Instead of directly cutting the paper pattern for the size you’d like, trace the pattern pieces onto paper (sandwich paper is a cheap option 😉) cut out the traced pieces and keep your sewing pattern whole. Leaving the original pattern in one piece means you can trace out alternative sizes (or pieces printed on the back!) to use another time.
04. Notches
Symbol: Triangles, diamonds or lines along the edge of pattern pieces
Notches are small marks used to match up different pieces of the pattern accurately. They help ensure that seams align correctly during construction.
Notches can be found around the outer edge of pattern pieces and single, double, or even triple, depending on the pattern. Some patterns even use a bold, very short, inward-facing line.
Match them up for a seamless (pun intended) join. If you skip marking your notches, you run the risk of mis-matching your pattern pieces and having a wonky finished product.
How to Use:
- Once you have cut out your fabric pieces, keep the paper pattern pieces in place.
- Look for all notch symbols on the paper pattern and mark each one onto your fabric pieces before removing the paper.
- Use the notch markings to accurately guide you when attaching fabric pieces together.
Tip: Notches can be marked within the seam allowance in a variety of ways, including tailor’s chalk, washable markers or even with a small scissor snip.
05. Zipper Placement
Symbol: Diagram of zipper line and teeth, markers or the word “Zipper”
There are many different types of ways to add a zipper into your fabric project, although the sewing instructions will tell you which style of zipper insertion is ideal for that sewing project.
As a result, different pattern makers use different symbols to indicate the correct place to sew in your zipper. Your pattern might have a show a straight line with small triangle teeth either side to represent the look of a zipper. Other patterns might include a straight line marking the start and end of a zipper. While others might literally include the word “zipper” on the paper pattern with a combination of stars or circle markers.
How to Use:
- Once you have cut out your fabric pieces, keep the paper pattern pieces in place.
- Look for all the zipper symbols on the paper pattern and mark them onto your fabric pieces before removing the paper.
Tip: Ever noticed that zippers come in all different sizes? Be sure to pay attention to the size needed for your particular project before you go shopping! 😉
More help and know-how for sewing beginners
💡 Important tips for understanding and using sewing patterns
💡 Sewing pattern terms you need to know
💡 Essential sewing tools all beginners can use
💡 What to look out for when buying a sewing machine
💡 Less than 30-minute bean bags sewing tutorial
💡 Beginner sewing patterns (no sewing pattern symbols needed!)
There you have it! With these 5 sewing pattern symbols decoded, you’re well on your way to conquering any sewing project that comes your way.
Remember, every stitch is a step towards mastering this incredible hobby. So, the next time you have a free hour and pull out a new sewing pattern, take a deep breath, pay attention to the details, and tell yourself “I’ve got this!”.
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