In case you missed it, the last few blog posts here have been all about getting back to the basics of sewing and learning (or maybe just jogging the memory) some of the most useful and important sewing terms.
Because, let’s be honest, the more sewing vocabulary you know, the more confident you will be when it comes time to sit down with your fabrics (see HERE for fabric terms) and sewing patterns (check out THIS post for sewing pattern definitions) and your sewing machine.
And don’t you just LOVE the feeling of knowing what you’re doing?!?
Oh wait! We haven’t talked about all those fancy sewing machine terms yet, have we?
There’s no better time that the present to start! Let’s jump in!
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning that I get a small commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you.
Sewing Machine Glossary: 15 Sewing Terms You Need to Know
01. What is a Backstitch?
A backstitch is a method of stitching to prevent the entire line of stitching to come undone.
Backstitching involves sewing backwards and forwards over the same line of stitches at both the start and end of the line.
Every sewing machine has a button to allow you to backstitch with your machine.
02. What is a Baste Stitch?
Nope, sorry. This is nothing to do with roasting a chicken!
A baste stitch is a technique of using long, loose stitches to temporarily hold pieces of fabric together.
Baste stitches are usually intended to be removed once the fabrics have been permanently sewn in place, although depending on where the permanent stitches are sewn, this may not be necessary. Some people even use baste stitches to hold fabrics together temporarily instead of pins. (Personally, I have yet to try it for that reason!)
03. What is a Bobbin?
A bobbin is a small wheel-looking piece made from wood, plastic or metal. It is used to hold sewing thread in place. The thread from the bobbin is often called the lower thread or bottom thread. The stitches formed from this thread can be seen on the underside of the fabric.
Tip: Don’t own just one bobbin, that you continually re-thread for each new sewing project, depending on the colour of the fabric. Keep at least a handful of bobbins ready-threaded with a variety of useful thread colours.
04. What is an Edge Stitch?
An edge stitch is a line of straight stitches sewn parallel and extremely close (approximately 3mm) to a folded edge of fabrics.
Edge stitching can be used not only to hold fabric layers together and reinforce a seam but also as a decorative touch, for example around a t-shirt neckline.
05. What are Feed Dogs?
No, don’t check your To Do List and start worrying about your pets. We’re talking about the feed dogs on your sewing machine.
Feed dogs are the metal ridges you can see poking up through the needle plate (see below) on the sewing machine. These ridges are what moves the fabric underneath the sewing needle (see below) to help form a row of stitches in the size you have set on your sewing machine.
Oh, and apparently they’re called “feed dogs” because of their numerous pointy teeth 😉.
06. What is a Needle Plate?
The sewing needle plate is the flat metal plate attached to the sewing machine underneath the sewing needle (see below) and the presser foot (see below) and above the bobbin (see above).
The needle plate has slots in it to allow the sewing needle to pass through upwards and downwards whilst creating stitches.
If you look closely, you will also notice markings on the needle plate. These markings are measurements in centimetres and/or inches and help you line up the fabric’s seam allowance (see below) during sewing.
07. What is an Overlocker? AKA Serger
An overlocker, also commonly known as a serger, is a special type of sewing machine used to join the fabric edges with an overlock stitch.
An overlocker uses several threads at once (up to 4!) to create this special type of stitch which prevents the edges from fraying and gives a very professional finished look to seams. (Take a look at the inside seams of any store-bought article you own and you are guaranteed to see examples of stitching created with a serger).
Overlockers usually also have a blade, so the raw edges of fabrics can be cleanly trimmed and stitched together at the same time.
Note: A serger can be used to complete many steps of a sewing project, but it cannot sew simple stitches like a top stitch or button holes. A regular sewing machine is still a must for machine-made sewing projects.
08. What is a Presser Foot?
A presser foot is an attachment on your sewing machine, designed to hold the fabrics flat as they travel between the sewing needles (see below) and the feed dogs (see above).
Apart from a standard presser foot, there are many specialist types for various tasks, such as sewing button holes, sewing over very thick fabrics or stitching in zippers.
Tip: Always make sure the presser foot is down while sewing!
09. What is a Seam Allowance?
For more details about following sewing patterns and preparing your fabrics to include the correct seam allowance, have a read HERE.
At the time of actually sewing on your sewing machine, the seam allowance is the distance between the edges of your fabrics and the sewing machine needle.
Tip: Read your sewing pattern carefully to know what this is!
Tip: Look closely at the needle plate (see above) to help you line up the fabric edges correctly.
10. What is a Seam Ripper?
While not actually a part of your sewing machine, a seam ripper will become a familiar friend once you regularly start using a sewing machine!
A seam ripper is a small, handheld tool with a sharp blade for cutting through stitches you wish to remove from your fabric (for example if your stitches went completely haywire).
Tip: A seam ripper is essential in any sewing tools kit. For more must-haves, take a look HERE.
11. What is a Sewing Machine Needle?
A sewing machine needle is a special needle designed to be used with a sewing machine (rather than for hand-sewing).
The sewing machine needle is held in place in the sewing machine and moves up and down as the feed dogs (see above) move the fabric along underneath, creating the stitches in your fabric.
There are many types of sewing machine needles available. Some are designed for woven fabrics , some for knits, some for fine fabrics like satin, while others are designed for sewing 2 parallel rows of stitching (twin needle, see below).
Tip: Sewing machine needles are extremely sharpy on the pointy end. Do not let your fingers come between the needle and the fabric while sewing. Ouch!
12. What is Thread Tension?
Thread tension refers to how tight or loose the threads are as they move through the sewing machine needle (see above). Hanging, loose threads create loose stitches!
The sewing machine tension is correct when the stitches on the upper side and underside of the fabric look the same and neither thread is poking through the opposite side of the fabric.
13. What is a Top Stitch?
A top stitch is often called an edge stitch (see above) but it is not necessarily the same. While an edge stitch is always a line of stitch close to the edge of the fabrics, usually near a seam, a top stitch is any stitching made on the right side of the fabric, either to reinforce the fabric pieces or as decoration (e.g., made with a twin needle, see below).
14. What is a Twin Needle? AKA Double Needle
A twin needle is a special sewing machine needle (see above) that has 2 parallel needles attached to the same fitting which is the held in place in the sewing machine.
A twin needle, sometimes called a double needle, is used both decoratively (grab some store-bought clothes and look closely at the top stitch (see above) of the hems) and also to prevent fraying of raw edges on the inner side of a seam.
Tip: Before starting sewing with a twin needle, be sure the sewing machine settings are set up for a twin needle rather than a single needle. Otherwise, you might end up with a twin needle (and your temper) that snaps!
15. What is a Zig Zag Stitch? (Alternatively Zigzag Stitch)
A zig-zag stitch is a stitch created by your sewing machine that looks exactly as it is named. Something like this actually 👉 VVVVVVVVVVVVVV.
A zigzag stitch is used for a number of reasons when sewing. It is a simple stitch to sew along the raw edges of fabrics to “finish” the edges and prevent them from fraying. Zigzag stitches are commonly used when sewing with stretch fabrics (like knits) because the stitch allows the fabric to move and stretch and the stitches are less likely to snap. Zigzag stitches are also a type of decorative stitch, to add a special point of interest to a sewing project.
Like so many hobbies, to feel confident and relaxed with your work you need to invest a little time in educating yourself with how things work and what all the special terms and phrases mean. This “Beginners Sewing Dictionary” series offers you dozens of terms and explanations that you will surely come across time and time again as you continue sewing.
BUT, I think, the most important things of all to remember are: have fun and be patient. Mistakes happen. But that’s how you learn to be better, right?
What other sewing topics would you like to learn more about? Comment below!
